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Throughout the year we will be profiling the characters behind the wines you buy – the winemakers of Maryland. Their stories provide great insight into Maryland wine's deep history and bright future. •
Anthony Aellen, Linganore Winecellars Sarah O'Herron, Black Ankle Vineyards It all began with a simple appreciation of wine. Sarah O’Herron, winemaker at Black Ankle Vineyards, grew up in a family in which wine was a part of celebration and special occasions. However, the wine business was not the immediate path that Sarah pursued. She and her husband, Ed Boyce, were management consultants before their aspirations turned to making “top quality wines.” According to O’Herron, her now extremely successful winery “just grew out of love and curiosity of wine. It simply came together—out of drinking wine.” O’Herron educated herself on the subtle differences and flavors of wine; spent endless amounts of time reading and researching wine and the industry. The project began in 2000-2001. She took field trips with her husband across the country and even around the world, visiting California, Maryland, Virginia, New York, Pennsylvania, New Zealand, France, and Italy in order to learn as much about the industry and various techniques as possible. She “also did three mini internships over three harvests, spending a week at Littorai in Napa Valley, two weeks at Chateau Falfas in Bordeaux, and the better part of 2 months at Paumanok in Long Island. These experiences provided broad exposure. “I learned all the nuts and bolts of everything, and learned the more subjective skills such as tasting and smelling for progress and/or problems throughout fermentation.” O’Herron truly learned the secrets of the wine making process (although she insists there are no secrets, only a “super fastidious” attention to detail), for when Black Ankle debuted, the vineyard certainly made a big splash. The 2006 Crumbling Rock won the Governor’s Cup, and there was a lot of buzz in the wine community about the quality wines that the new vineyard was producing. O’Herron states that part of the reason they received so much attention upon their opening was due to the fact that she and her husband did not come from within the wine industry. “We were totally from the outside, the industry did not even know we existed,” said O’Herron. However, the novelty factor is definitely not why the wines that O’Herron and Black Ankle create are so incredibly well received. The philosophy behind the wine must positively affect the final product. Sarah believes in being self-sustainable. All of the fruit used in the wines are grown on the vineyard, which is fertilized with compost made on the grounds. “We are fairly unique—not quite organic but very sustainable. We use no herbicides and only use chemicals when rarely needed in emergency situations,” said O’Herron. The vines are tended by hand, all 42,000 of them, in order to ensure that everything is perfect and they will produce the best fruit possible. According to O’Herron, such personalized dedication is directly reflected in the final product. Another notable influence is that of a woman’s touch. Sarah is a very successful woman in an industry that consists mainly of men. Her current and continued success must be commended in an industry that is difficult to tap into. Learn more about Black Ankle Vineyards Anthony Aellen, Linganore Winecellars at Berrywine Plantations Located northeast of New Market, Maryland, Berrywine Plantations/ Linganore Winecellars is a family-owned and operated vineyard and winery. The first acres were planted in 1971 and the winery was established in 1976. Anthony Aellen has always been a part of the family business, but this was not the path he planned to take. After graduating from high school in 1977, Anthony attended college as a pre-med major. While studying for an exam in his second year, he decided that he wanted to pursue a different career. Anthony started to take courses at UC Davis to learn about wine and winemaking. In the early eighties Anthony took over the winemaking responsibilities from his father, Jack. In 1972, Linganore Winecellars started with 6 acres and 30 different varieties of grapes, to experiment with what varieties worked and did not work in Maryland. In the early ‘80s Linganore became a test site for Cornell University and began growing many hybrid varieties including Melody and Cayuga grapes. “This was a neat learning experience with a new grape,” says Aellen, “It was a new opportunity to hone my skills.” “As a winemaker I am continually learning, continually expanding what you know and what you do,” says Aellen, stating that learning is a key element to life at Linganore, allowing the winery to be a leader in the wine industry. In 1978, Linganore was the first winery to produce a semi-sweet wine. And in 1990, Berrywine Plantations introduced the first dry fruit wines. Aellen’s favorite wine to make is a barrel-aged dry red wine. He likes these wines because it takes three to four years to make. The building excitement is his favorite part of the process. It forces the winemaker to slow down and focus on the wine. Aellen says, “The coolest thing is to go through and develop a new wine. Having it sit and all along wondering if customers will like it. Then when it is ready bringing it to the tasting room and letting customers try it. You learn to read faces and can immediately see if they like it.” This connection with customers distinguishes Linganore. Many of their customers get to know the family and become repeat customers. Part of this connection is that the customers are “walking away with a part of the family.” Knowing the family who makes the wine adds pressure to make sure that the quality is there. “We have built a reputation of producing nice, enjoyable, drinkable wines,” says Aellen. At Linganore, they know that people drink what they like. Due to this they provide a wide variety of different wines for different palate and levels of maturity. By providing different wines, Linganore aims to reach all types of customers. According to Aellen, Maryland provides for a unique and great location for growing grapes and producing wines. “Maryland provides a nice location with many potential customers and a climate that produces good fruit. Good fruit produces good wine,” says Aellen. “There are many different regions in Maryland providing a wide variety of grapes in a relatively small geographic area. The moderate climate allows it to be cold enough to make whites, but not too warm to produce reds. The only draw back is that there is limited land, which makes it more expensive than other states.” Linganore started as a hobby in a basement in Brooklyn where Aellen’s grandfather produced 200 gallons of wine. Today Linganore Winecellars/ Berrywine Plantations is a much bigger operation producing 50,000 cases in 2009. Linganore has become known for a nice, relaxed atmosphere producing “great times and fun wines.” Learn more about Linganore Winecellars. Al Cassinelli, Cassinelli Winery & Vineyards While still a fairly young business, Cassinelli Winery and Vineyards has already created a profound and distinguished name for itself. Founded in 1998, the business really started to take off in 2002. Now, just eight short years later, it produces an impressive assortment of wine varieties, including Chardonnay, Merlot, Viognier, Sangiovese, and Malbec. For Al Cassinelli, owner and founder of the winery, an interest in harvesting and winemaking sprouts from his strong Italian background and heritage. Although Cassinelli and his wife Jennifer founded the winery, his grandfather—who immigrated to the United States from Italy in 1946—sparked his interest in the wine business. “He had a big influence on me—on business and wine,” says Cassinelli. “I wanted to farm and be able to grow something that could be turned into a valued added product.” With a total of 13 acres planted and 720 plants per acre, it is clear that Cassinelli will continue to expand the breadth of wine varieties and flavors available. Currently, only the mature Chardonnay and Merlot plants have been producing, but Cassinelli plans for other varieties to come on line by next year. Among the wines available at Cassinelli Winery, Cassinelli highlights the Chardonnay as his wine of choice. “I prefer the Chardonnay. It really wants to grow here on the shore and the wine is very nice.” While Maryland is among one of the newer states to enter the winemaking industry, Cassinelli comments that many winemakers in the area do their part to contribute to the growing industry, showing enthusiasm and interest in the success of Maryland wine. “As a young startup industry trying to find its feet and direction, we have a lot of producers who are genuinely concerned about putting Maryland on the map with quality wines,” he comments. Seeing as how the industry continues to thrive, the time and effort Cassinelli contributes to his winery and products is well worth the endeavor. For him, the rich and luxurious nature of the business proves to be a rewarding process. “The most rewarding aspect of owning a winery is actually working with the vineyard all year to get it to produce quality grapes, then turning them into a nice wine,” he cites. “Nothing beats walking through the vineyard with a glass of wine from the grapes that you personally grew.” Thanks to Al Cassinelli and his love for the winemaking industry, Maryland will continue to produce exemplary and quality wines in its own backyard. Learn more about Cassinelli Winery & Vineyards. Warren Rich, Little Ashby Vineyards (7/09) Charles Baudelaire, prominent French poet, once wrote, “Beauty is the sole ambition, the exclusive goal of Taste.” Taste is what Warren Rich has framed his life around. Warren Rich, owner and winemaker of Little Ashby Vineyards, is a modern Renaissance man. Educated in the school of chemistry, a confident lawyer with his own practice, a sophisticated winemaker, a loving dog owner—you name it, this man has it covered. “I’ve always been a wine lover—I always loved Italian wine—and I was always interested in chemistry,” says Rich. “There are two things I’m concerned about as a winemaker, that every winemaker is really concerned about—humidity and temperature,” Rich explained, “Here on the Eastern Shore, in Talbot County, there’s a great microclimate for the production and persistence of grapes. “ If Rich’s attention to detail and demand for sophistication and specificity doesn’t attract you to his vineyard, his wine will. “I think that wine deserves an educated palette and a great nose,” Rich said, “and I produce wine for that educated palette.” Rich developed his superior tastes during his travels throughout Italy and Europe. While he was developing his law career, he worked in Italy with a few friends, experimenting during his time away from the office with cooking and tasting wines from the local vineyards. “That’s around the time that I really began to develop my appreciation for Italian wine, and between cooking with really fresh ingredients, and sampling different wines, I knew that I wanted to try and make my own,” Rich said. So after coming back to the States, Rich continued to work in enviromental law, but pursued winemaking at UC-Davis, where he took a short course to learn more about owning and maintaining a winery. Rich wasn’t always focused on becoming a winemaker. Before his experiences in Italy and with law, he intended to go on to medical school, but decided that family was more of a priority. Instead of working long hours, and having to relocate, Rich chose to stay with Lynne and his children and find their own place to live and create wine. “Warren has impeccable—almost immaculate—taste,” His wife, Lynne commented, “He knows how to make a superb, dry wine.” Learn more about Little Ashby Vineyards. Greg Lambrecht, Serpent Ridge Vineyard (4/09) Famed Australian Max Schubert once said “The greatest wines have implanted in them the ideas of the winemaker as to what they should be. His character is part of the wine.” True to form, Greg Lambrecht produces structured yet innovative wines. Greg is the winemaker at Serpent Ridge Winery, which he owns with his wife Karen. Over the past 22 years, Greg’s Coast Guard career kept him travelling. He spent some time in the Russian River Valley of California, and that is where his love for wine and the art of wine making blossomed. “The unbelievable vistas coupled with the wonderfully new experiences on my palate had me hooked.” Greg devoted as much time as he could to experience those wineries and to tasting wines. It wasn’t until the mid ‘90s that Greg and Karen began their small-scale winemaking. This lead to a love affair with the vines, the grapes, and the wines they produced. In their new passion, they found the perfect location on a beautiful 5+ acres, and named it Serpent Ridge due to the abundance of the reptiles found on the hill. Greg compares the climate and its challenges similar to grape growing areas like Bordeaux, Northern Italy and Eastern Europe. “Because we are blessed with this climate we can successfully produce many vinifera and hybrid varieties,” says Greg Lambrecht. “I use the word blessed because I do not consider our climate a negative but rather one of the influences that work to define the wonderful character of our wines.” He is a firm believer that Maryland’s grapes offer wonderful varietal characteristics and earthy undertones. These are quite different from the more popular “big” reds from the West Coast, but Lambrecht poses the question “the characteristics of Maryland wines are derived from the regional differences offered by our climate. This 'regionality' is embraced in other parts of the world–why not here?” Serpent Ridge consists currently of two acres of grapes, and this leads to a hands-on approach to wine making. Each vintage is made in small lots, and aged in stainless steel or new age oak. The bottles are sealed with a Zork, a relatively new and quite innovative approach to bottle closures. In regards to the debate of art versus science when wine making, Greg says this “At Serpent Ridge we allow the art of winemaking to be nudged by science if it decides to wander too far from our vision.” Serpent Ridge officially opens in April. Look out for Serpent Ridge Albariño and two Cabernet blends, both influenced by Greg’s favorite varietals. Serpent Ridge will also be making a Pinot Grigio, Seyval-Blanc, and Ophion, a semi-sweet blush. Learn more about Serpent Ridge Vineyard. Ray Brasfield, Cygnus Wine Cellars (9/08)
It takes more than passion and desire to go from an aerospace engineer to a winemaker. A niche for winemaking is just the start. The growing of a superb wine is the true infatuation that one man possesses and bestows on others. Ray Brasfield left his familiar surroundings as an aerospace engineer in 1992 to pursue his true passion, wine. He soon had a modest home winery that quickly expanded. Brasfield opened Cygnus Wine Cellars in 1995 to accommodate his ever-growing interest. The winery’s name links back to his astronomy roots. Cygnus’ name comes from a constellation known as The Swan or the Northern Cross. Brasfield’s engineering background is not the only thing that helps in the preciseness of winemaking. He explains that people must bring a certain amount of discipline to winemaking regardless of their former careers. “You don’t have to be a chemist or physicist, but understanding basic chemistry has been an advantage,” says Brasfield. “It's a blend of art and science – there’s an artistic and a technical side,” Brasfield says. “There are a lot of technically correct wines that are stylistically boring. You must take the science and merge it with a sense of style and artistry." Brasfield is chooses grapes for blends based on the growing season, not just on what has worked in the past. He says winemaking is a “grand experiment” each vintage. Each year brings an entirely different growing season. The same grapes from the same vineyard are a little different every year. “He is an expert in the manipulation of the grape to make a great wine,” says Al Copp, owner of Woodhall Wine Cellars. Brasfield made several wines for Woodhall Wine Cellars before starting Cygnus. He truly left his mark as a respectable and knowledgeable winemaker. “Ray is responsible for bringing Woodhall to a new plateau of quality,” said Copp. As Brasfield learned more and more about wine, he decided to share his knowledge. He is not only a dedicated winemaker but also a vineyard consultant. He educates and advises other grape growers about the character and quality of grapes. “Better grapes from more growers benefit everyone,” Brasfield says. Learn more about Cygnus Wine Cellars. Chris Kent, Woodhall Wine Cellars (7/08) Television production and winemaking may seem like an unlikely pair for most, but for Chris Kent, they are a perfect fit. Kent is the winemaker for Woodhall Wine Cellars in Parkton and has been a part of the team for 15 years. Stuck with looking for a new job in a new area, mutual friends introduced Kent to the Woodhall clan. A part-time job at the winery in 1993 turned into a new beginning for Kent. As he continued to look for another job in the television industry, Kent was unaware that his true calling was right under his nose.
“It ultimately turned into an unintended career change,” Kent said. “I’m glad for it, too.” “It went from mild curiosity to something that was completely fascinating to me,” Kent said. “It turned into a true passion.” His passion is what drives him each day, each season. Kent is extremely knowledgeable about the different grapes in the different vintages. He is aware and understands that what worked last year does not guarantee anything for the upcoming growing season. “It is the element of mystery and adventure that keeps winemaking from being mundane,” said Kent. “Each year offers something different and new; you become excited and fired up. Learn more about Woodhall Wine Cellars.
Tom Burns entered into the wine industry in 1983 after graduating from Penn State University with a degree in agriculture business management. He started out in 1983 as a winemaker’s assistant and vineyardist at a small winery in Pennsylvania and began working for Boordy in May of 1986. It’s difficult for Burns to choose a favorite wine to make and insists that a winemaker must be excited about all of it. “Whatever I’m working on is my favorite,” he says. Although, he does acknowledge that Chardonnay has been kind to Maryland. “You must have the same amount of passion for whatever it is, regardless of variety and style,” says Burns. “From receiving the fruit to putting it into the bottle, a winemaker should turn (his) vision into what the wine should smell and taste like,” says Burns. He believes that winemakers should preserve what nature has given to them, working with and not against the subtleties and nuances of different grape varieties. “His hallmarks are to produce very clean, pure flavors; wines with good balance,” says Spoler. Learn more about Boordy
Vineyard. Bill Loew, Loew Vineyards (3/08) "The wine here stands on its own without being similar to something else,” says Loew. “That’s the beauty of winemaking.” Bill Loew prides himself on the unique blends that Loew Vineyards has to offer. Blueberry, Raspberry in Grape, and Honey & Grape are among the 16 different varieties Loew Vineyards bottles and sells. The Loews have had great success with their wines because they aren’t afraid to experiment. “The fun of blends is there’s a real synergistic effect. Two together is better than one. They bring out the best in each other,” says Bill. Bill Loew understands his customers and the particularities of their different tastes. He works in his vineyard every day personally tending to and caring for the vines which in turn produce remarkable, distinctive wines. Loew says that although it is a lot of hard work, it is extremely satisfying in the end. “The end results must be good—I have to be happy with it—otherwise I wouldn’t release the wine,” Bill says. Learn more about Loew Vineyards. Mike
Fiore, Fiore Winery (2/08)
When Mike arrived in 1963, he met his beautiful bride Rose and began working for BGE – but he always knew he'd plant vines and make wines. It was more than 20 years until Fiore Winery began production in 1986. The winery vineyard, located in Pylesville, is one of the state's best-known and respected wineries. As Maryland's most award-winning winemaker, Mike recalls a major highlight when Robert Mondavi congratulated him for an award given to a Fiore wine that beat out other popular California wines, including those of Mondavi. "He walked right over and shook my hand," Mike says. Fiore Winery is known for many of its wines, but it's the Chambourcin that gets the most attention. "Nobody makes Chambourcin like Mike Fiore," says Maryland Wineries Association director Kevin Atticks. It's big and bold, spicy, fruity and able to be paired with everything from pizza and pasta, to wild game to filet mignon. "It's my pride and joy," says Mike of his Chambourcin. Learn more about Fiore
Winery. Rich
Cleary, Fridays Creek Winery (12/07) Originally, Rich owned his own home improvement business but made a tremendous shift to winemaking. Perhaps it was his love of chemistry and the process that goes into producing wine that made his father’s proposition so inviting. However, it should not go unmentioned that Rich is also a full-time firefighter in Anne Arundel County, on top of the extensive hours he puts in at the winery. Fridays Creek produces Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, Blush, Seyval Blanc, Vidal, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and two blends, Patio White and Friday Afternoon. “I am pretty much a chemist here at Fridays Creek – I test, I taste and check for development,” Rich adds. But in the end, it’s drinking wine – once bottled and ready – that Rich claims to be the most enjoyable aspect of his job. Learn more about Fridays
Creek Winery. Bert
Basignani, Basignani Winery
The grapes were planted nine years prior to the winery opening in 1986. The Basignanis were encouraged by other Maryland wineries and friends to continue their growing and winemaking. “We became caught in the whole aspect of making it and starting up the winery, but people were interested,” Lynne says of she and her husband turning their interests into a lifestyle and career. Each year, Bert produces 4,000 cases of wine. On the 18 acre vineyard, Bert grows a variety of different grapes that produce eleven different varieties of wine. Bert manages two vineyards off-site, allowing for many more winemaking options. Along with Bert’s favorite, Cabernet Sauvignon, he also makes Merlot, as well as three sweeter wines, Riesling, Vidal and Blush. The Basignanis have created four wines named after their children, one white, Elena and three reds, Marisa, Lorenzino and Erik's Big Zin. Learn more about Basignani
Winery. Fred
Wilson, Elk Run Vineyards
In 1983, Fred Wilson took the plunge and opened Elk Run Vineyards with his wife Carol. Continuing his engineering career, Fred remained director of the Naval Science Assistance Program with the US Navy until 1994, when he officially "retired" into the wine business. Since then, Fred has won the Maryland Governor's Cup three times, and has won many gold and silver medals in international wine competitions. He has served as Maryland Wineries Association president and continues to be heavily involved in helping to grow the industry. While focusing on growing quality fruit, Elk Run Vineyards has also pioneered certain grape varieties in Maryland, including Pinot Noir, Malbec and Gewurztraminer. Learn more about Elk
Run Vineyards. Carl
DiManno, Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard While at Davis, Carl studied winemaking and conducted his research on the impact of micro-oxidation on the sensory characteristics of red wine. During the harvest of 2002, at Artesa Vineyards and Winery, under the tutelage of noted winemaker Don van Staaveren. His other winery experiences included DeSante Wines and Vine Cliff along with providing technical expertise to Winesecrets, a Napa based wine technology company. As native east coasters, Carl and his wife Erin wanted to move “home.” In 2004, Carl started at Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard as vineyard manager. At the end of 2004, Carl began designing the winery and he served as winemaker for subsequent harvests. Carl remains active on the research side of the industry, reviewing grant proposals for American Vineyard Foundation and Viticultural Consortium – East and retains a small ownership stake in Winesecrets. Learn more about Sugarloaf
Mountain Vineyard. Don Tilmon, Tilmon's Island
Winery In the spring of 1999 Don moved to Sudlersville, Maryland and subsequently planted 15 Concord vines for “home made” wine. By 2003 small amounts of wine were being shared with neighbors who seemed to like it and hinted for more...and so the process of becoming a winery began. By December 2005, Tilmon’s Island Winery was officially the first commercial winery in Queen Anne’s County, Maryland. Tilmon’s Island Winery purchases local vinifera grapes where possible in Caroline, Talbot and Queen Anne’s Counties. The winery is small, producing about 500 cases of wine annually in a basement garage of his home. Learn more about Tilmon's
Island Winery. Tim Lewis, Cove Point
Winery Lewis began by making his own basic beers, then graduated to whole-grain brewing. At some point, Lewis recalls wanting to try something different, so he started making wine. He found it was more challenging than making beer – citing the thousands of options presented by choices in yeasts, enzymes and aging techniques. Plus, there are also many more things that can go wrong with wine – so many variables at every turn. Cove Point Winery has a wide variety of wines. Lewis' personal favorites (both to make and to drink) are big, bold red wines. But, the market wants variety, and Cove Point Winery provides it – 24 wines at any given time. Lewis prides himself on making wines not found readily in the region, like Symphony, Blaufrankish and Vignoles. Lewis' next big challenge is getting his new building built. "We're out of space," said Lewis, who has every inch of his basement occupied with tanks, supplies and bottles filled with wine on its way to market. Learn more about Cove
Point Winery. Paul Roberts, Deep Creek
Cellars After 10 years of growing grapes in Deep Creek's Alpine climate, Roberts has learned that his Cabernet Franc are suited best to pink wines. He's particularly proud of his 2006 estate-grown Cabernet Franc rosé, due out in late spring. "You'll think it's from the Loire Valley." The winery reflects Roberts' casual, rustic style, and the wines, nearly all dry, are bottled without filtration. From the quaint tasting room, to gravity-flow bottling and hand-labeling equipment, the focus is on nature and its resources. He is one of the nation's few winemakers to spell out his philosophy in a book — From This Hill, My Hand, Cynthiana's Wine (1999). "Paul typifies what a growing industry needs; he's an innovator, and he's not afraid to take chances," says Dick Penna, grape grower and chair of the Maryland Wine and Grape Advisory Commission. Retailer Mitchell Pressman, owner of Baltimore's top-rated Chesapeake Wines, says: "Paul is a brilliant winemaker who happens to have a small vineyard in western Maryland… The wine is delicious and unique." Learn more about Deep
Creek Cellars. Morris Zwick, Terrapin Station Winery Before deciding to open a commercial winery, however, he began as a grape grower, planting his seven acres of vines in 2003. Today he grows several varieties, such as Traminette, Cayuga, Cabernet Franc and Vidal. He enjoys experimenting with new types of grapes such as St. Vincent, of which he is currently the only Maryland grape grower. The most noticeable thing that sets his winery apart from other state wineries is the containers in which he sells his wine. He decided to try something new to the state of Maryland and began selling the state’s first quality boxed wine. “They started out as a preventative measure against corked wine, but as I experimented with the design I realized all the advantages of boxed wines,” says Zwick. “They are much lighter than traditional wine bottles, are easy to pour for a single serving and are much easier to recycle.” In addition to all of these benefits, Terrapin Station Winery donates $1 from each purchase to help the diamondback terrapin, an endangered animal native to the Chesapeake Bay. His greatest challenge has been overcoming the stereotype that boxed wines are poor quality, but says companies like Black Box Wines and Banrock Station have begun to push the idea of quality boxed wine. “I think what Morris is doing is innovative and fun and he is really helping to pioneer the way for new winemaking techniques in Maryland’s growing wine industry.” says Mark Emon from St. Michaels Winery. Learn more about Terrapin Station Winery.
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