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GrapeView: The Grapes of Maryland Throughout the year we will be profiling the characters behind the wines you buy – the winemakers of Maryland. Their stories provide great insight into Maryland wine's deep history and bright future. Please keep checking back – the series will
expand each month. White Grapes Red Grapes Reliance—Tropical & Seedless Reliance is a hardy and vigorously growing grape. This is a strong variety with a skin thickness that is less than most grapes on the eastern table. While this makes Reliance more susceptible to animals and disease, this grape is very reliable and stores well. Loew Vineyards is currently the only winery in Maryland producing wines with Reliance grapes. “The grape has a nice crisp flavor even as it develops from the green to the rosy state, but the full flavor citrus, pineapple, and floral emerges at full ripeness and rosiness,” says Lois Loew. “The grapes actually have a nice aroma as they ripen, which probably helps to draw other creatures including birds, deer, and squirrels. We put nets over the grapes as they ripen to protect them.” Due to the time that Reliance ripens, usually before the end of August, Loew says, this allows the grapes to be harvested before the September rains come. Even though the scent attracts animals, the grape is fairly disease-resistant. Loew Vineyards currently uses Reliance grapes in three different wines. The first is usually completely made of Reliance grapes. Loew says “Although the grapes are rosy, the juice is light, the color of Riesling. Acids are generally on the lower side. The semi-sweet wine has a citrus-y, pineapple character both in aroma and taste, and is well-balanced and refreshing.” The second wine that Reliance is used in is a blend with Chardonnay. The third type has never been bottles before and is a blend of Reliance and honey. This seedless grape produces a semi-sweet wine that can have a zesty flavor. Although Reliance has not caught on in the Maryland region, Loew says that they love using this grape and that there are little problems in growing Reliance in Maryland. Petit Verdot—Vigourous & Tannic For those who aren’t familiar with this wine terminology, simply translated, Petit Verdot grows very quickly and in long slender clusters. The internodes (or space between leaves) tend to be five to six inches, which is considerably far for a grape vine. “Petit Verdot has three to four clusters per shoot, but the clusters are small and lightweight,” comments Wates. “Overcropping is a concern,” says Carl DiManno of Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard. “Green harvest [dropping fruit] is needed to maintain vine balance.” While some wineries produce pure Petit Verdot wines, it is generally used as a blending grape across Maryland, especially in Cabernet Sauvignon blends. Since the grape is very tannic, has great color and a strong flavor, but is mostly used to add taste to a reserve wine. “Petit Verdot offers great color, high acid and tannin,” says DiManno. “Aromas are fruit forward and jammy; flavors are black fruit and spice.” “I would be surprised if there were more than five acres total growing the grape in the entire state,” says Wates, noting that this contributes to why varietal Petit Verdot wines are hard to find. “We have about one acre committed to the Petit Verdot grape,” says Wates. “Considerably more plantings were planned for 2009, though I do not know if they came to being,” adds DiManno. Blaüfrankisch—What's in a Name? In the United States, this relative to the Gamay grape can be called either Blaüfrankisch or Lemberger, yet few know what the wine it is capable of producing. It typically yields a dry, medium bodied, delicately fruity red that was a favorite of Napoleon Bonaparte. In the U.S., Blaüfrankisch is grown primarily in New York and Washington State. It was brought to North America and was first established in Washington in 1941. Tim and Sheryl Lewis of Cove Point Winery are experimentally trying out this fine grape in Southern Maryland’s town of Lusby. The couple came across this varietal while visiting a vineyard in Pennsylvania. “Sheryl exclaimed how wonderful this wine was. I tried it and ended up buying grapes from the winery that day,” said Lewis. Cove Point wine tasting notes state “this full bodied wine’s aromas are unique and inviting with black plums and black cherry undertones. The first sip yields cherry and berry flavors. The tannins are very soft, barely noticeable, but they contribute a very nice spiciness.” It will be exciting to see if Maryland continues to explore Blaüfrankisch’s potential. “It is one of the few red vinifera's that can fully mature in cooler climates and retain a wonderful deep-red color,” Lewis raved. As a vine, it grows exceptionally well in Maryland’s climate and is not as susceptible to fruit rots/fungi as other vinifera grapes. While powdery mildew can still be a problem in mid-to-late fall because of its tendency to produce rather large leaves, this is an issue that can be remedied by regular leaf picking. Agreeing with Lewis, Bob Scott of Bellendine Vineyards in Carroll County said he planted 100 vines in 2004 and has been very happy with the results. Claiming the grape is both hardy and responsive, Scott noted that the grape is easier to maintain because it does not require an intense amount of fertilization. “Some grapes do differently in different climates,” Scott said. “Blaüfrankisch does something different here than in Germany, giving it a strong potential for application.” The temperature here in Maryland varies greatly from that of the grape’s native Europe. Scott believes it may be this warmer climate that stimulates the deeper flavor commended in the Cove Point wine tasting. Reception of the wine should only continue to increase given that is a strong choice among lesser known wines – its Beaujolais style is appealing to red and white wine drinkers alike, and the cherry finish can be noted by even the novice wine taster. While Lewis recommends serving with a grilled steak, it pairs well with most everyday meals, even fish, and can be served after dinner with chocolate desserts. “Those who have tried this varietal in our winery or at the festivals usually rave over it,” said Lewis. “Blaüfrankisch is a truly fantastic wine.” Let’s give it a chance to get past its problematic name. Barbera—Reserved, yet Sharp According to Jennie Schmidt, president of the Maryland Grape Growers Association, in only its second year of production the Barbera grape is already producing award-wining wines. “Barbera is easy to manage compared to other Italian reds such as Sangiovese,” says Schmidt. Adding that the grape has not been susceptible to disease and that it is “not over vigorous,” Schmidt sees it self-regulating during the growing season. Tending her two acres of Barbera has been a relatively stress-free process for Schmidt. Why grow Barbera in Maryland? Chris Kent of Woodhall Wine Cellars says it grows well and tastes great. “It grows and ripens very well and poses few problems in wine making,” Kent says Woodhall has had great success with Barbera, including a 2008 gold medal in the Governor’s Cup. Taking little manpower and supervision, the Barbera grape grows to its full potential in Maryland soil with ease, reaching ideal levels of sugar and pH and developing the rich red color for which it’s famous. Barbera grapes are very acidic, creating a wide range of wines, from lighter bodied and fruity to rich and thick. After fermentation, when most wine’s level of acidity drop, Barbera’s remains high, giving it a unique, rich taste. This wine is often used for blending due to its color and high acidity. As for Barbera’s future in Maryland, Woodhall’s Kent believes it’s here to stay, saying, “It’s a real wine drinker’s wine.” Viognier—Reluctant & Rewarding With great patience and determination, Maryland vineyards have taken on the difficult task of cultivating the Viognier grape. Its name coming from a Latin phrase meaning “road to hell,” the Viognier is neither eager nor willing to be harvested to create wine. Taking on this task displays the passion and dedication of Maryland winemakers and grape growers. “Growing grapes just because they are easy to grow would make Maryland wines extremely one dimensional and uninteresting,” states Mark Cascia, the owner of Cascia Vineyards in Stevensville. The Viognier, a white grape, is thought to have been brought to the Rhone Valley in France by the Romans in the third century. It is extremely rare, making up only a small fraction of grapes grown in the world and was nearly extinct by the mid 20th century after two World Wars and the relentless onslaught of insects and disease. By the end of the 20th century, however, the Viognier was planted in both North and South America and southern Australia. The growing season of this particular grape is longer than most, leaving a very small window to be harvested. If picked too early the rich taste cannot fully develop and if picked too late the grape becomes oily. The strength and resilience of this grape is evident in its bold taste. Mark Emon, the owner of St. Michael’s Winery describes the Viognier as “complex and rich,” perfect for blending with other wines such as Syrah/Shiraz, which is done in Cote Rotie of France. Emon says that this wine is enjoyed by red wine drinkers, who usually prefer a heavier, fuller taste. St. Michael’s goes as far to list the Viognier on their “Red Lovers” list. This wine is described by most as having a taste and aroma of citrus fruits. Viognier differs from other white wines because it contains an array of volatile aromatics, which give it its complex taste. It is paired well with seafood and chicken as well as spicy dishes such as Thai and Vietnamese cuisine. Though frustrating to growers, the final result of the Viognier is worth the trouble and long wait. This unique, versatile wine stands alone, unlike its family of white wines. It is this unwavering perseverance that sets Maryland Wine makers apart; there is no task too difficult or tedious when it comes to making a great wine. Riesling—Delicate & Honeyed Riesling grapes have late ripening cycles, which allow them the time to extract the minerals and trace elements from the soil. Having such late ripening cycles not only gives Riesling wines a distinct flavor, but it allows for a wide spectrum of wines from dusty dry to magnificently sweet. Riesling vines are hard wooded which allows them to be quite tolerant to cooler weather conditions. They also bud late, which means that they are suited to cooler wine growing climates that may suffer from late frosts in the Spring. When ripe, Riesling grapes are small, round, and soft with tender, greenish yellow skins. Lois and Bill from Loew Vineyards first began planting grapes in 1982. During this time, they planted one experimental acre to see what grew well—and Riesling was a success. They then decided to expand a few years later to include additional rows of Riesling. “Riesling is a finicky grape to grow, so you really have to be attentive to it,” says Lois Loew. “It’s a late harvester, so it may be October before it is ready. It is not subject to spring frost, though, which is a great benefit,” Loew says. Riesling grapes typically produce three distinct styles of wine: dry, semi-dry, and sweet. For a crisp, fruity Riesling wine, it is best to pick the grapes early, when the sugar content is low and the acidity is still strong. Leaving the grapes a bit longer on the vine produces the off-dry wine. Whereas if the grapes are harvested late in the season after the grapes have fully ripened, they will produce a sweeter, more honeyed aromas. “A good Riesling should produce a great fragrance and aroma,” says Loew. No matter the preference of the final wine’s sweetness or style, the method to creating a good Riesling remains the same, according to Harry Hepbron of Dove Valley Winery. “The grape itself is what makes a good Riesling,” says Hepbron. “[It all depends on] the soil it’s planted in, the growing season and when it is harvested.” Sauvignon
Blanc —Citrus of the Eastern Shore. Sauvignon Blanc is a grape that produces crisp, dry wine with a decidedly grapefruit-y, citrus-y finish. Sauvignon Blanc makes a great varietal wine and is good for blending, according to Tom Shelton, owner and winemaker of Bordeleau Vineyards & Winery. Shelton is the proud winner of the 2009 Winemasters Choice Awards for “Best in Show” with his Pinot Grigio. “Where traditional New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc wine tends to be more crisp and grassy, California Sauvignon has more body and less acidity,” Shelton says. Typically dry in style, Sauvignon Blanc is a versatile grape that can produce great wine. Jancis Robinson, author of “Vines, Grapes, & Wines: The Wine Drinker’s Guide to Grape Varieties,” describes Sauvignon Blanc as a very aromatic wine, “white, dry, refreshingly zesty, aggressively recognizable and ready to drink almost before the presses have been hosed down after the vintage.” Easy to grow in Maryland’s Eastern Shore microclimate, Sauvignon Blanc tends to have a heavy canopy and hangs longer than other grapes, helping to prevent too much acidity in the finish of the wine. “It’s a more vigorous wine that you don’t find that often in the state,” says Shelton. “I do a lot more shoot-thinning and leaf-pulling to produce a more meaningful Sauvignon Blanc.” So, with seafood or chicken or cheddar cheese on hand, Marylanders raise their white wine glasses in a toast to one of the under-reported wines to grow in the state: Sauvignon Blanc. Gewürztraminer –
Spicy & Sweet Traminer is known as the parent grape to the thick skinned Gewürztraminer. The origins of Gewürztraminer date back to the year 1000 to the village of Termeno in what is known today as Italy. Essentially, Gewürztraminer is a mutation of the Traminer grape. The “Gewürz”, which translates from German as “spice” was not added until the 19th century. Gewürztraminer often produces low yields, is prone to frost damage and is difficult to grow due to its weak defenses against viral vine infections. “The most difficult thing is foliage control,” says Carol Wilson of Elk Run Winery. “Gewurztraminer has an abundance of leaves on short spidery secondary canes.” Carol, who runs one of the only wineries in Maryland growing Gewürztraminer, says it is easy to get full ripeness from the grapes because they are a mid-season harvesting grape and do not need to stay on the vine for very long. Smells of exotic fruits and flowers are often found Gewürztraminer along with sweet and spicy overtones of lychee and grapefruit. Gewürztraminer pairs very well with Asian dishes, due to its spicy nature. Fresh fruits, cheeses, chicken, and fish are also ideal pairings for the full and rich feel of Gewürztraminer. Cabernet
Sauvignon – King of Reds These small, dark grapes have a thick skin, making them highly resistant to disease. Cabernet Sauvignon grapes offer high levels of tannin to create a more complex wine than other red grapes. Cabernet Sauvignon earned its reputation in the Bordeaux region of France, where it may be combined with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot to create the great wines of the region. While Cabernet Sauvignon can be grown in almost every climate, the grapes thrive in regions with warm, sunny days with cool nights. Cabernet Sauvignon grapes ripen mid to late season. Perhaps no one in Maryland knows what is takes to grow Cabernet Sauvignon quite as well as Bert Basignani, of Basignani Winery, who is known for producing Cabernets including his Lorenzino Reserve. “It’s all about the flavor,” says Basignani. “We don’t have the long summers necessary to get the full body that you’ll get in California, but if your looking for a medium-bodied red, it’s as good as any in the world,” says Basignani. Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard’s Mike McGarry says the hardest thing about Maryland Cabernet is getting it fully ripe. The winery, located in Dickerson, Maryland, was the winner of the 2008 Maryland Winemasters’ Best Dry Red for its 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. “Cabernet Sauvignon is the last to ripen so we are at the mercy of October and early frosts,” says McGarry. Still, there are benefits to Cabernet Sauvignon. Given its vigor, Cabernet Sauvignon produces plenty of grapes; we seek three tons per acre and therefore drop about five to six tons throughout the season.” Taste characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon most often include dark cherry, cedar, tobacco, and black currant. Smells of coffee, ginger, and chocolate are often found in the wine as well. The complex taste of Cabernet Sauvignon lends itself to pairings with beef, lamb, aged hard cheese, and dark chocolates. McGarry says there is a key to growing great Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. “We do not want the vine to spend a lot of energy feeding bull canes, rather we want the vine to concentrate on the fruit. Therefore we try to trick the vine into thinking small.”
Sangiovese –
Maryland's True Italian Sangiovese thrives in a hot, dry climate—much like the one Tuscany provides—which is where it dominates. The small blue-black grape is late to ripen and slow to mature. “The secret is trying to minimize the production,” says Mike Fiore, of Sangiovese’s propensity to overproduce. Fiore drops fruit twice during the growing season, the latter time during veraison. “It tends to overcrop and needs to have significant fruit dropping to improve color and flavor,” said Jennie Schmidt of Golden Run Vineyard, a commercial grape grower in Maryland’s upper shore. “It is more disease susceptible and needs to be managed more intensively than some of our other varieties.” The wine can be fruity and earthy at times and is the perfect partner for a variety of tomato-based pasta dishes and meats off the grill. “In a nutshell, Sangiovese is challenging,” Schmidt says. The grape and its wine are still uncommon in Maryland, with only a few iterations of Sangiovese being produced. Although there seem to be preliminary issues with growing this variety, Marylanders are committed to figuring out this grape. “I am hopeful that as our vineyard climbs up the learning curve, we will master Sangiovese production rather than it mastering us,” Schmidt said. Fiore has high hopes for Sangiovese’s legacy in Maryland. “We think it’s going to be great – and I think it’s going to be a beautiful glass of wine.”
Merlot–– Little Blackbird The first recorded mention of Merlot was when a 1784 vintage wine, made from the grape, was named one of the Libournais region’s best. The name “merlot” is French and translates to “young blackbird,” which is used because of the grape’s dark-blue color or perhaps because of the blackbird’s love for grapes. Researchers from the University of California, Davis believe that Merlot is an offspring of Cabernet Franc France, Italy, and California are the primary producers of Merlot. Nature and Merlot have a somewhat love-hate relationship. However, the vines can be very vulnerable to early spring frosts. Merlot is also a key target of birds and cannot tolerate any kind of bird damage due to its fragile skin. Also, it is able to ripen in cooler regions than required for Cabernet Sauvignon, but is harder to grow because of its high susceptibility to fungus and mold diseases. “The East Coast gets pretty heavy rain in the early season, just about as wet as they get,” says Tucker O’Brien of Wynne Winery in Leonardtown. “Our Merlot grows on incredibly vigorous vines in an area where vigor isn’t hard to find because of the rich nutrients in the soil,” says O’Brien. He believes the southern and central growing of Maryland are prime locations for growing Merlot. Wines from Merlot tend to soft, fruity, and smooth in texture. The more common flavors are plum, cherry, and blackcurrant. Aromas of vanilla and coconut can be produced from lightly oaked Merlot. “The soils of the Eastern Shore impart a special earthiness to our Chester River Merlot,” says Don Tilmon of Tilmon’s Island Winery in Sudlersville. “The finish is soft and pleasing.” Cabernet
Franc –– Robust, yet obedient In only the second year of harvesting at Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyards, the Cabernet Franc grape produced four tons. “That vintage won double gold in the International Eastern Wine Competition up in Ithaca against 2,500 other wines from all over the world,” says McGarry. Plantings of the Cabernet Franc grape began in 1980 in California when winemakers wanted to imitate the Bordeaux blend. Cabernet Franc is a medium-skinned, mid-ripener that usually produces a dry wine. It is the main red grape of the Loire Valley and one of the three major grapes of Bordeaux. Cabernet Franc can be used to produce a varietal wine, but it is more commonly used as a blending agent to impart color and fragrance. The vine is extremely vigorous, and the berries are rather small with a bluish-black color. The Cabernet Franc grape is very similar to Cabernet Sauvignon, of which it is a parent. It ripens earlier, usually has lower acidity, and is able to survive more readily in cooler climates compared to the Cabernet Sauvignon. Bill Loew of Loew Vineyards in Mount Airy says that because of its resistance to fungus and the fact that it matures a bit earlier, “if you had to select between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, [in our region] go with the Franc.” As a wine, it is more moderate in terms of weight and robustness; therefore, Cabernet Franc pairs well with a wide range of foods. “It’s my pick for Thanksgiving,” says Carol Wilson of Elk Run Vineyards in Mount Airy, one of the first wineries to bottle the grape in Maryland. Robust, winter-hearty, and aromatic, the last 10-15 ripening days are most important for the Cabernet Franc. “Toward the end of maturation it becomes a very lovely grape,” says McGarry. Syrah ––
Persian Heritage, Local Flare Syrah, also called Shiraz in New World growing regions, is a thick skinned, dark grape that produces a dry, dense wine. Origin unknown, the grape’s history is deep in the Rhône region of France. Some say the grape was brought to France from the city of Shiraz, in Iran. This was one of the worlds earliest wine producing regions, and the similar name may be a clue towards tracing the grape’s history. Black Ankle Vineyards and Elk Run Vineyards are two Maryland wineries that grow Syrah. It is a reliable variety that is resistant to most pests and diseases. Syrah is known to have rot problems in other regions, but Ed Boyce from Black Ankle Vineyards has had three to four years of crops with no problems of rot. Fred Wilson from Elk Run first planted the grape in 2001 with no specific problems. According to Boyce, Syrah is a vigorous variety that grows fast and produces bunches weighing up to a pound each. “Elk Run practices cluster thinning, reducing the yield down to 15 bunches a vine,” says Wilson. We plant the vines about four feet apart with the row spacing being eight feet and use cane pruning.” According to Boyce, the French legends about this grape are true when it comes to rain. “They have a different relationship with water; if you get a drought, the other vines start shutting down to conserve water, and won’t do much ripening. Syrah will party on, it does nothing and will chug along until it dies.” As a wine, Syrah is medium to full bodied, with spicy aromas. It pairs well with grilled or braised meats and vegetables, wild game like venison, and red meats. Although it is often blended with Cabernet, it makes for a lovely varietal wine. Fred Wilson ages his Syrah in two to three-year-old American oak barrels for 14 to 15 months. His wine has “good robust characteristics with dark colors and opulent fruit flavors.” “The wine is wonderful,” says Boyce of his Syrah. “The grapes produce wines with interesting noses. There are aromas out of Syrah that you don’t find other places like leather, mocha, grilled meat and earth…you get really earthy wacky stuff, which I love.” Boyce said that his grapes produce a more European style wine, as opposed to the popular Australian Shiraz flavors of raspberry and plum. Vidal Blanc ––
Tough-skinned and versatile
The grape is thick-skinned, which helps it stay disease-free even in the wettest growing seasons. Vidal Blanc has a reputation of being easy to grow and very productive…sometimes yielding up to eight tons of fruit per acre. “"Vidal has been the workhorse of our vineyard," says Jennie Schmidt, a commercial grower in Sudlersville in Queen Annes County. “The variety is more disease resistant and capable of producing higher tonnage. As a hybrid, Vidal generally demands less of our management time than the vinifera varieties.” The Schmidts sell Vidal grapes to numerous Maryland wineries. “Vidal is definitely in our vineyard expansion plans." Aromatic with lively acid, Vidal Blanc makes an excellent off-dry wine, but can also be used to create late-harvest and ice-style wines. “Vidal Blanc is one of the most versatile grapes that are grown in Maryland,” says Al Copp of Woodhall Wine Cellars in Parkton. It makes a very nice, fruity sweet wine, an excellent dry wine that pairs well with food. “It’s great all-around – but it really excels in late harvest and ice wines,” says Copp. Wines made from this grape are available from: Chardonnay––
A Flexible Classic The grape itself is neutral which accounts for a subtle nose and lack of a distinctive flavor, leaving much of the resulting wine’s character to the winemaker’s craft. Yet, the taste pleases as many drinkers as its easy cultivation pleases many growers and winemakers. In warm years, Chardonnay can present lush, tropical aromas. In cooler years, the grape yields a steely, sometimes minerally character. Winemakers argue whether it’s best to age Chardonnay in barrels or stainless steel; either option can produce an extraordinary wine. “Chardonnay ripens fairly well in almost any year,” comments Bert Basignani of Basignani Winery. “It ripens early, and it doesn’t have a tendency to over-crop [like other varieties].” Even as an early ripener, Chardonnay is susceptible to powdery mildew, a common affliction of vines grown in humid conditions. All in all, the grape is fairly disease resistant, according to Basignani. “As long as I can control powdery mildew, Chardonnay does quite well,” says Dick Penna, a grape grower in Washington Country in Western Maryland. “Chardonnay is reasonably vigorous and produces good fruit with a fair degree of complexity.” Its popularity—and abundant availability from wineries worldwide—does imply significant competition for winemakers. Basignani says, “It is a tough market to compete it, but I really like the wine it makes.” Chambourcin
–– The French American Chambourcin was developed by Joannes Seibel in the France’s Loire Valley and released in the 1960s. It has been planted in America and Australia since the 1970s. Today, more than half of the world’s Chambourcin is planted in the Loire. In fact, it is the third most planted grape variety in the Loire-Atlantique region. Philip Wagner, the late founder of Boordy Vineyards in Hydes, was instrumental in propagating the vine throughout America via his vineyard and nursery business. Chambourcin is a late-ripening grape that requires a long growing season. Deep crimson in color, it is extremely vigorous and high-yielding after a few seasons of planting. Steve Purvins of Lawtan Hall Vineyard in Southern Maryland's St. Mary's County, has been growing the grape for eight years with great success. “Chambourcin is a good grower—I’ve always gotten a good crop,” says Purvins. “It has a tendency to grow too well,” he says, referring to its incredible vigor. The grape yields wines that are deep in color, very fruity, and exceptionally flavorful. As a result of the grape’s high tannins, thick skin, and good acidity, Chambourcin wines produce fragrant, herb-like aromas. “You can do whatever you want with it—that’s the beauty of the grape,” says Mike Fiore, of Fiore Winery in Pylesville, Maryland. “It has very strong potential. I’ve seen people make a rosé out of it, and I’ve seen people making full-bodied, robust red, just like we do.” Fiore’s Proprietor’s Reserve Chambourcin is considered by many to be one of the nation’s best examples of Chambourcin’s potential. The grape’s future in Maryland is strong. “I would recommend Chambourcin to any new grower,” says Purvins. Seyval Blanc–
Sturdy & Productive Paul Spies of Tidewater Vineyards, a commercial vineyard in Talbot County, knows all about this hybrid’s success. “We have been growing Seyval vines for about 20 years here on the Eastern Shore and we have seen some great results,” says Spies, “Maryland has been doing well with this vine.” Seyval vines are particularly vigorous and require careful pruning. While they have good disease resistance in colder climates, some challenges arise when growing Seyval in humid areas, where the vines are more prone to diseases like botrytis. Humidity aside, Seyval is dependable and productive. Seyval is often tart with high acidity, and yields a very dry wine with citrus undertones. “Here in Maryland its flavor tends to be spicier than some French and English varieties,” says Spies. “It goes great with seafood and crabs.” Rob Deford, proprietor of Boordy Vineyards in Baltimore County, is well aware of Seyval’s merits as well as its flexibility. “Boordy has championed Seyval for decades – it’s a great varietal and blends incredibly well with Chardonnay and Vidal.” Pinot Gris–
Light & Tangy The vine and leaves of this variety are so similar to Pinot Noir that it is often only the color of the grape itself that tells them apart. Pinot Noir boasts dark purple to black fruit, while Pinot Gris gets its name from its grayish-blue to brownish-pink colored fruit. Many winemakers choose to pick the fruit early, since the grape tends to rapidly lose its acidity once ripe. This works out nicely for growers such as Bob White of Quail Vineyards, who particularly enjoys its early yield, since it allows him to devote more of his efforts on the more difficult late harvest varietals. “It is a clean, light-styled wine, certainly different from Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc,” says Ray Brasfield of Cygnus Wine Cellars who makes his wine in a manner somewhat hybrid between Italian and French styles. The wine produced, can be done in a multitude of different approaches decided only by the choice of characteristics the winemaker wishes to highlight. Depending on the winemaker’s whim, the wine can be anything from round and full-bodied, with pear or melon flavors to a light, crisp wine with a citrus tang. Others choose to do it in a style similar to Chardonnay with oak aging or malolactic fermentation. The color can also vary considerably from nearly clear to an almost copper color.” Traminette––
Flowers & Spice The vine is a vigorous grower that maintains the spicy, fruity flavor from its parents. “It’s a solid performer,” said Morris Zwick of Terrapin Station Winery. Theirs is an off-dry, German-style Traminette that’s been very popular since its release. “It has out-sold everything we make by far.” The grape fares well in Maryland’s humid climate. It is moderately resistant to powdery mildew, black rot, Botrytis and bunch rot. “It is like Riesling in which the grape itself grows well but the fruit when ripening is susceptible to disease,” said Eric Aellen of Linganore Winecellars, referring to Traminette’s culture. “You just simply have to take care when ripening.” Traminette is a late mid-season grape that is winter hardy and suitable for cool climates and grows especially well in Central and Northern Maryland due to its ripening in early October. A slight draw back to growing this vigorous variety is the thick canopy of leaves and shoots it can develop. A simple solution is summertime trimming to open the canopy to sunlight. Traminette has a unique flavor profile that possesses characteristics of its parent, Gewürztraminer – it’s spicy, but not overwhelming. To enhance the spicy flavor and floral aromas, skin contact for 12 to 48 hours is recommended. It has a great balance between sugar, acidity and pH, which increases its fruit quality. “It’s a good grower and a great producer,” Allen said. “Its flavor is different—in a good way,” Zwick said. “It’s not a plain white wine and that’s why people like it.” Zwick continued to praise the grape and the wine it produces. “I would grow more if I could,” he said. “I am still looking for somewhere to buy more!”
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