Throughout the year we will be profiling the characters behind the wines you buy – the winemakers of Maryland. Their stories provide great insight into Maryland wine's deep history and bright future.

          • Bert Basignani, Basignani Winery
          • Ray Brasfield, Cygnus Wine Cellars
          • Tom Burns, Boordy Vineyard
          • Rich Cleary, Fridays Creek Winery
          • Carl DiManno, Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard
          • Mike Fiore, Fiore Winery
          • Chris Kent, Woodhall Wine Cellars
          • Tim Lewis, Cove Point Winery
          • Bill Loew, Loew Vineyards
          • Paul Roberts, Deep Creek Cellars
          • Don Tilmon, Tilmon's Island Winery
          • Fred Wilson, Elk Run Vineyards
          • Check back soon...the series will continue.

Ray Brasfield, Cygnus Wine Cellars (9/08)

It takes more than passion and desire to go from an aerospace engineer to a winemaker. A niche for winemaking is just the start. The growing of a superb wine is the true infatuation that one man possesses and bestows on others.

Ray Brasfield left his familiar surroundings as an aerospace engineer in 1992 to pursue his true passion, wine. He soon had a modest home winery that quickly expanded. Brasfield opened Cygnus Wine Cellars in 1995 to accommodate his ever-growing interest. The winery’s name links back to his astronomy roots. Cygnus’ name comes from a constellation known as The Swan or the Northern Cross.

Brasfield’s engineering background is not the only thing that helps in the preciseness of winemaking. He explains that people must bring a certain amount of discipline to winemaking regardless of their former careers.

“You don’t have to be a chemist or physicists but understanding basic chemistry has been an advantage,” says Brasfield. “It's a blend of art and science – there’s an artistic and a technical side,” Brasfield says. “There are a lot of technically correct wines that are stylistically boring. You must take the science and merge it with a sense of style and artistry."

Brasfield is chooses grapes for blends based on the growing season, not just on what has worked in the past. He says winemaking is a “grand experiment” each vintage. Each year brings an entirely different growing season. The same grapes from the same vineyard are a little different every year.

“He is an expert in the manipulation of the grape to make a great wine,” says Al Copp, owner of Woodhall Wine Cellars. Brasfield made several wines for Woodhall Wine Cellars before starting Cygnus. He truly left his mark as a respectable and knowledgeable winemaker. “Ray is responsible for bringing Woodhall to a new plateau of quality,” said Copp.

As Brasfield learned more and more about wine, he decided to share his knowledge. He is not only a dedicated winemaker but also a vineyard consultant. He educates and advises other grape growers about the character and quality of grapes.

“Better grapes from more growers benefit everyone,” Brasfield says.

Learn more about Cygnus Wine Cellars.
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Chris Kent, Woodhall Wine Cellars (7/08)

Television production and winemaking may seem like an unlikely pair for most, but for Chris Kent, they are a perfect fit. Kent is the winemaker for Woodhall Wine Cellars in Parkton and has been a part of the team for 15 years.
With a broadcast journalism degree from Louisiana State University, Kent traveled up to Maryland believing he would enter the broadcast industry.

Stuck with looking for a new job in a new area, mutual friends introduced Kent to the Woodhall clan. A part-time job at the winery in 1993 turned into a new beginning for Kent. As he continued to look for another job in the television industry, Kent was unaware that his true calling was right under his nose.

“It ultimately turned into an unintended career change,” Kent said. “I’m glad for it, too.”
Under the guidance of owner, Al Copp, and then winemaker Ray Brasfield, Kent had great teachers to point him in the right direction. He had the basics of winemaking down and learned more as his career progressed.

“It went from mild curiosity to something that was completely fascinating to me,” Kent said. “It turned into a true passion.”

His passion is what drives him each day, each season. Kent is extremely knowledgeable about the different grapes in the different vintages. He is aware and understands that what worked last year does not guarantee anything for the upcoming growing season.

“It is the element of mystery and adventure that keeps winemaking from being mundane,” said Kent. “Each year offers something different and new; you become excited and fired up.

Learn more about Woodhall Wine Cellars.
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Tom Burns, Boordy Vineyard (4/08)
“In Tom Burns, Boordy has a winemaker who can really deliver the goods,” says Al Spoler, host of WYPR’s Cellar Notes. “He is remarkably consistent from vintage to vintage,” Spoler says.

Tom Burns entered into the wine industry in 1983 after graduating from Penn State University with a degree in agriculture business management. He started out in 1983 as a winemaker’s assistant and vineyardist at a small winery in Pennsylvania and began working for Boordy in May of 1986.

It’s difficult for Burns to choose a favorite wine to make and insists that a winemaker must be excited about all of it.

“Whatever I’m working on is my favorite,” he says. Although, he does acknowledge that Chardonnay has been kind to Maryland. “You must have the same amount of passion for whatever it is, regardless of variety and style,” says Burns.

“From receiving the fruit to putting it into the bottle, a winemaker should turn (his) vision into what the wine should smell and taste like,” says Burns. He believes that winemakers should preserve what nature has given to them, working with and not against the subtleties and nuances of different grape varieties.

“His hallmarks are to produce very clean, pure flavors; wines with good balance,” says Spoler.

Learn more about Boordy Vineyard.
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Bill Loew, Loew Vineyards (3/08)
“Some customers are tired of the same wine and want some diversity—we have diversity,” says Bill Loew. The Loew family knows diversity with their history of winemaking. It began in the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the mid-19th century with a honey wine brewery. Looking to honor the family tradition, Bill Loew and his wife, Lois, began planting Loew Vineyards’ first grapes on a 37-acre plot in Frederick County in May of 1982.

"The wine here stands on its own without being similar to something else,” says Loew. “That’s the beauty of winemaking.” Bill Loew prides himself on the unique blends that Loew Vineyards has to offer. Blueberry, Raspberry in Grape, and Honey & Grape are among the 16 different varieties Loew Vineyards bottles and sells.

The Loews have had great success with their wines because they aren’t afraid to experiment. “The fun of blends is there’s a real synergistic effect. Two together is better than one. They bring out the best in each other,” says Bill.

Bill Loew understands his customers and the particularities of their different tastes. He works in his vineyard every day personally tending to and caring for the vines which in turn produce remarkable, distinctive wines.

Loew says that although it is a lot of hard work, it is extremely satisfying in the end. “The end results must be good—I have to be happy with it—otherwise I wouldn’t release the wine,” Bill says.

Learn more about Loew Vineyards.
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Mike Fiore, Fiore Winery (2/08)
Though Mike Fiore's winemaking knowledge and skill have been honored by wine professionals throughout the U.S., it was his childhood in Italy that built his foundation of great vineyard and winemaking skills. "My family has been growing grapes for centuries," says Mike, of his family's operations in Italy. Mike grew up in the industry and was Italy's youngest winemaker before he left for America.

When Mike arrived in 1963, he met his beautiful bride Rose and began working for BGE – but he always knew he'd plant vines and make wines. It was more than 20 years until Fiore Winery began production in 1986. The winery vineyard, located in Pylesville, is one of the state's best-known and respected wineries.

As Maryland's most award-winning winemaker, Mike recalls a major highlight when Robert Mondavi congratulated him for an award given to a Fiore wine that beat out other popular California wines, including those of Mondavi. "He walked right over and shook my hand," Mike says.

Fiore Winery is known for many of its wines, but it's the Chambourcin that gets the most attention. "Nobody makes Chambourcin like Mike Fiore," says Maryland Wineries Association director Kevin Atticks. It's big and bold, spicy, fruity and able to be paired with everything from pizza and pasta, to wild game to filet mignon.

"It's my pride and joy," says Mike of his Chambourcin.

Learn more about Fiore Winery.
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Rich Cleary, Fridays Creek Winery (12/07)
Seven years ago, Frank Cleary asked his family – and particularly his son Rich – if they would be interested in going into business together. Without hesitation, Rich was quite interested in learning about wine and becoming a professional winemaker for his family’s Fridays Creek Winery of Owings, Maryland.

Originally, Rich owned his own home improvement business but made a tremendous shift to winemaking. Perhaps it was his love of chemistry and the process that goes into producing wine that made his father’s proposition so inviting. However, it should not go unmentioned that Rich is also a full-time firefighter in Anne Arundel County, on top of the extensive hours he puts in at the winery.

Fridays Creek produces Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, Blush, Seyval Blanc, Vidal, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and two blends, Patio White and Friday Afternoon.

“I am pretty much a chemist here at Fridays Creek – I test, I taste and check for development,” Rich adds. But in the end, it’s drinking wine – once bottled and ready – that Rich claims to be the most enjoyable aspect of his job.

Learn more about Fridays Creek Winery.
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Bert Basignani, Basignani Winery
For twenty one years, Bert and Lynne Basignani and their children have been growing and making variety of exceptional wines on their vineyard located off Falls Road in Sparks, Maryland. The pure love of drinking wine was what brought Bert’s curiosity to make his own wine to drink as an amateur. After a successful career in the construction business, Bert decided to begin a winery.

The grapes were planted nine years prior to the winery opening in 1986. The Basignanis were encouraged by other Maryland wineries and friends to continue their growing and winemaking. “We became caught in the whole aspect of making it and starting up the winery, but people were interested,” Lynne says of she and her husband turning their interests into a lifestyle and career.

Each year, Bert produces 4,000 cases of wine. On the 18 acre vineyard, Bert grows a variety of different grapes that produce eleven different varieties of wine. Bert manages two vineyards off-site, allowing for many more winemaking options. Along with Bert’s favorite, Cabernet Sauvignon, he also makes Merlot, as well as three sweeter wines, Riesling, Vidal and Blush. The Basignanis have created four wines named after their children, one white, Elena and three reds, Marisa, Lorenzino and Erik's Big Zin.

Learn more about Basignani Winery.
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Fred Wilson, Elk Run Vineyards
Mt. Airy is home to some of the state's most historic wineries, but also, one of the most award-winning winemakers in Maryland wine history. Elk Run Vineyards' Fred Wilson pursued an education in engineering before entering a 30-year career in the field as a naval architect with the U.S. Navy. Fred always had an interrest in wine, but he found this interest growing into a new career in the early '80s. Fred studied winemaking in France, Germany and in New York's famed Vinifera Wine Cellars under the instruction of Dr. Konstantine Frank – one of American wine's luminaries.

In 1983, Fred Wilson took the plunge and opened Elk Run Vineyards with his wife Carol. Continuing his engineering career, Fred remained director of the Naval Science Assistance Program with the US Navy until 1994, when he officially "retired" into the wine business.

Since then, Fred has won the Maryland Governor's Cup three times, and has won many gold and silver medals in international wine competitions. He has served as Maryland Wineries Association president and continues to be heavily involved in helping to grow the industry.

While focusing on growing quality fruit, Elk Run Vineyards has also pioneered certain grape varieties in Maryland, including Pinot Noir, Malbec and Gewurztraminer.

Learn more about Elk Run Vineyards.
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Carl DiManno, Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard
In 1997, Carl DiManno left Shell Oil in Louisiana to join Chevron Chemical in Northern California. While living in Oakland, Carl was “bitten” by the wine bug, often spending three weekends a month in the wine country. Soon after, he began to explore ways to get into the industry. These appear to include buying a vineyard, working up from the bottom as a “cellar rat” or going back to school. After careful review, Carl opted to pursue a Masters degree from the University of California at Davis (UCD).

While at Davis, Carl studied winemaking and conducted his research on the impact of micro-oxidation on the sensory characteristics of red wine. During the harvest of 2002, at Artesa Vineyards and Winery, under the tutelage of noted winemaker Don van Staaveren. His other winery experiences included DeSante Wines and Vine Cliff along with providing technical expertise to Winesecrets, a Napa based wine technology company.

As native east coasters, Carl and his wife Erin wanted to move “home.” In 2004, Carl started at Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard as vineyard manager. At the end of 2004, Carl began designing the winery and he served as winemaker for subsequent harvests. Carl remains active on the research side of the industry, reviewing grant proposals for American Vineyard Foundation and Viticultural Consortium – East and retains a small ownership stake in Winesecrets.

Learn more about Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard.
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Don Tilmon, Tilmon's Island Winery
Winemaker Don Tilmon is a native of Missouri, raised on a cotton farm in the Southeast part of the State. From the start, he was committed to agriculture, and received degrees in Animal Science (U. Missouri), Production Management (U. Delaware), and Ag Marketing (Purdue University). From 1971 to 1978 Don was a professor of Business Administration at Lynchburg College in Lynchburg, Virginia. He chaired the department from 1973 through 1978. In 1978 he returned to the University of Delaware as Farm Management Specialist and Professor with the Delaware Cooperative Extension Service. He has served in that capacity for the past 29 years.

In the spring of 1999 Don moved to Sudlersville, Maryland and subsequently planted 15 Concord vines for “home made” wine. By 2003 small amounts of wine were being shared with neighbors who seemed to like it and hinted for more...and so the process of becoming a winery began.

By December 2005, Tilmon’s Island Winery was officially the first commercial winery in Queen Anne’s County, Maryland. Tilmon’s Island Winery purchases local vinifera grapes where possible in Caroline, Talbot and Queen Anne’s Counties. The winery is small, producing about 500 cases of wine annually in a basement garage of his home.

Learn more about Tilmon's Island Winery.
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Tim Lewis, Cove Point Winery
Cove Point Winery winemaker Tim Lewis a man of many talents. He is a successful computer systems engineer by day, and award-winning winemaker by night. While both careers are passions of Lewis, it's the winemaking that keeps him occupied during every non-9-to-5 hour.

Lewis began by making his own basic beers, then graduated to whole-grain brewing. At some point, Lewis recalls wanting to try something different, so he started making wine. He found it was more challenging than making beer – citing the thousands of options presented by choices in yeasts, enzymes and aging techniques. Plus, there are also many more things that can go wrong with wine – so many variables at every turn.

Cove Point Winery has a wide variety of wines. Lewis' personal favorites (both to make and to drink) are big, bold red wines. But, the market wants variety, and Cove Point Winery provides it – 24 wines at any given time. Lewis prides himself on making wines not found readily in the region, like Symphony, Blaufrankish and Vignoles.

Lewis' next big challenge is getting his new building built. "We're out of space," said Lewis, who has every inch of his basement occupied with tanks, supplies and bottles filled with wine on its way to market.

Learn more about Cove Point Winery.
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Paul Roberts, Deep Creek Cellars
It was as an apprentice at California's prestigious Chateau Montelena that Paul Roberts leaned how to make superb wine: start with quality grapes, and exercise imagination. Roberts sources fruit locally, regionally, and nationally, and also grows his own.

After 10 years of growing grapes in Deep Creek's Alpine climate, Roberts has learned that his Cabernet Franc are suited best to pink wines. He's particularly proud of his 2006 estate-grown Cabernet Franc rosé, due out in late spring. "You'll think it's from the Loire Valley."

The winery reflects Roberts' casual, rustic style, and the wines, nearly all dry, are bottled without filtration. From the quaint tasting room, to gravity-flow bottling and hand-labeling equipment, the focus is on nature and its resources. He is one of the nation's few winemakers to spell out his philosophy in a book — From This Hill, My Hand, Cynthiana's Wine (1999).

"Paul typifies what a growing industry needs; he's an innovator, and he's not afraid to take chances," says Dick Penna, grape grower and chair of the Maryland Wine and Grape Advisory Commission.

Retailer Mitchell Pressman, owner of Baltimore's top-rated Chesapeake Wines, says: "Paul is a brilliant winemaker who happens to have a small vineyard in western Maryland… The wine is delicious and unique."

Learn more about Deep Creek Cellars.
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