The following was presented at the 1998 Maryland Department
of Agriculture Grape Growing Seminar by Jim Russell
Who buys Maryland grapes?
The Maryland wineries use about half the grapes grown in the state, and are forced to acquire the rest from out of state. The other half are sold to amateur winemakers, who also have to import as much from out of state. The varieties needed to serve these two markets are similar but the amateur will be more willing to try new varieties. This makes it possible for vineyards selling to the amateur to experiment more than vineyards owned by or selling to wineries. There also is a small demand for table grapes to be eaten as fresh fruit or processed into jams, jellies, and unfermented grape juice. This demand is met mostly by backyard plantings belonging to the people using the grapes. A small part is met by sales from roadside stands, a few small vineyards, and at least one multi-acre vineyard devoted solely to table grapes.
There are two groups of grape varieties which account for almost all of the grapes grown for commercial use in Maryland. The one most widely publicized and with varieties having the greatest name recognition is the European grape family, Vitis vinifera. This includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, and many other classic European varieties. These are the grapes that make the famous wines of France, Germany, Italy, Portugal, and Spain. Many cannot be grown in Maryland because they cannot tolerate our winter temperatures or early fall and late spring frosts. Luckily, some of the best of them can be grown in Maryland. Many more probably will do well on the Eastern Shore but this has not yet been proven.
The second group is the French hybrids which combine European and native American ancestry. These were developed to provide varieties having the insect and disease resistance of the American varieties with the high fruit quality of the Vitis vinifera. There are scores of these varieties. Most withstand our growing conditions and many make excellent wines. The quality of wine made from these is vastly superior to that made from most native American varieties, and hybrids quickly supplanted the natives once the buying public became aware of them. As we have learned how to grow them more successfully, the vinifera are catching up with the hybrids, both in numbers of vines in production and in demand by winemakers, throughout most parts of the East. As a group, the vinifera usually sell at about twice the price of the hybrids (or a little more). They are supposed to be harder to grow and less productive but, in my experience, this is not true for the varieties in greatest demand.
The two most important factors to consider in selecting varieties are:
1. What will grow successfully at your vineyard location?
2. What can you sell (and for how much) if you can grow it?
The first can be answered with considerable confidence for those varieties that have been planted widely enough to provide data.
What will sell is much harder to decide because the answer depends on which varieties will be in demand beginning at least three years from when you plant your vineyard. It takes that long before the vines will start producing and public tastes can change. However, the varieties, both vinifera and hybrids, with the widest name recognition have held up pretty well for a long time. Consequently, the wineries have considerable confidence that they can use much more of them downstream than they are now able to buy. There also are some good producers among the hybrids which are not well known by the buying public but which are widely used for proprietary blends. These are likely to stay in demand. There are some newcomers, like the vinifera Viognier, which have had a very rapid rise in popularity and which, if they don't turn out to be a short-lived fad, will be in demand, possibly at premium prices. These newcomers are what a stock broker would call high-risk, high-return choices. You have to be aware of the risk involved if you plan to grow them.
An important factor in deciding what will sell is the wine quality a variety will produce where you intend to grow it. A variety may produce healthy vines and adequate production but, if the wine is not good, it won't sell. Pinot Noir is a good example in Maryland. The vine is healthy and productive but the wine only occasionally has any depth of flavor or adequate color. I have had only two vintages I consider acceptable in 25 years of growing it. Riesling is also healthy and productive but the rains we almost always have just before harvest cause cracking. When this occurs, the grapes must be harvested immediately to avoid rot, whether they are ripe or not. I get pretty good wine about one in three years and excellent wine about one in five years. It is not a low-risk choice for a new commercial vineyard.
Recommendations
I will divide possible varieties into three groups. These are:
1. The "standards" which wineries have been buying consistently over the years and which seem likely to continue in popularity.
2. Varieties which have not yet reached the confidence level of the standards but which seem good enough in both viticultural and winemaking characteristics to warrant limited planting.
3. Varieties which are not recommended for Maryland, even though they may be successful when grown in other locations.
Recommendations are based on my own experience and on discussions with growers and winemakers in Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Virginia. They are not the unanimous verdict of all who expressed opinions but they do present the majority opinion about each variety.
Vinifera Standards
Cabernet Franc - The easiest of the vinifera to grow successfully in all parts of Maryland from Washington county eastward. Less sensitive to fungus diseases than most of the vinifera. Excellent production and excellent wine. In demand by wineries and amateur winemakers.
Cabernet Sauvignon - Less hardy than Cabernet Franc but is hardy enough in good Maryland locations from Washington county eastward. In such locations, probably no more than two or three years in the last 25 with sufficient winter damage to primary buds (the fruitful ones) to markedly reduce yield. One year (I 993) caused widespread damage to the vines themselves. Highly susceptible to black rot but this is easily controlled by an adequate spray program. A good producer. It is so vigorous that it requires good canopy management to keep canopy open enough for good air movement, good spray penetration, and adequate light on fruit and inner leaves. Was a slow mover for the wineries during the '80s but is making a comeback now that they have more experience in preventing too many harsh tannins and too much vegetative flavor in its wines. I know of no growers who have had any difficulties in selling their crops since about 1990.
Chardonnay - The variety that wine buyers usually think of first when they want white wine. Always in demand by wineries and amateur winemakers. The vines are productive and healthy if disease is controlled by an adequate spray program. Highly susceptible to powdery mildew. Botrytis and sour bunch rot are common if summer pruning and leaf pulling are not used to keep the canopy open. Adequately hardy in areas where Cabernet Franc can be grown except where air drainage is poor. In such spots, late frosts frequently damage primary buds and reduce the crop significantly. Not an easy grape to grow but worth the trouble once you learn how to care for it.
Merlot - Another classic from Bordeaux where it and Cabernet Franc are typically blended with Cabernet Sauvignon. Makes an outstanding red wine by itself for which demand is rising rapidly. Less hardy than the Cabernets and less vigorous. Should not be planted on sites with poor air drainage or in the colder parts of the state. Where it can be grown, it produces well, has about the same disease resistance as Cabernet Franc, and I know of no grower who does not have a much larger demand than he can supply. Easily stunted by overcropping early in the life of the vine. A vigorous rootstock should be used.
Hybrid Standards
Cayuga - One of the best hybrid whites. With a reasonable spray schedule, healthy, not usually bothered by either powdery mildew, black rot, or botrytis. Should be grafted for maximum vigor. Susceptible to downy mildew if extended rainy weather occurs in August or early September but sprays will control it. Wine is excellent, production is high, and wineries in Maryland are starting to appreciate this variety. A growing market is expected.
Chambourcin - In my opinion, the best of the hybrid reds for wine quality. Good producer but vines on their own roots will lose vigor from year to year until production is markedly reduced. Should be grafted on a vigorous rootstock like 5BB, 5C, or S04. Even a moderate spray schedule usually keeps it reasonably free of disease. Currently in demand by wineries and amateur winemakers and the demand shows no signs of abating. Winter hardy in most of Maryland except the colder western region.
Chancellor - A good producer if fungus diseases are controlled by a good spray schedule. Makes excellent red wine which ages well when handled by a winemaker who knows its characteristics. As winter hardy as Chambourcin, some say more so. In demand but, currently, fewer wineries are using it than Chambourcin. If a dependable supply were available, this might change.
Seyval - The most widely grown and used white hybrid. Makes good to excellent wine. Fungus diseases, except botrytis/sour-bunch rot, easily controlled by spraying. In continuing demand from wineries and amateur winemakers. Hardy in Maryland east of the mountains. A heavy producer, so much so that shoot and cluster thinning usually are required to prevent overbearing and rapid decline. On its own roots, is hard to keep vigorous, even with regular nitrogen fertilizing. When grafted to a vigorous rootstock, vigor is markedly improved but regular nitrogen feeding still is needed for long, productive life.
Vidal - The second most widely grown white hybrid. Vigorous, disease resistant with spraying, productive, and hardy. Is known to be susceptible to nematodes and the viruses they carry so should be grafted to nematode-resistant rootstock unless your vineyard soil is known to be free from nematodes. Makes outstanding wine if allowed to ripen. Sugar sometimes is high enough to leave residual sugar in the wine unless a high-alcohol yeast is used. In continuing demand.
Promising Vinifera
Nebbiolo - One of the outstanding red grapes from Italy, thought to be the best by many. Makes outstanding wine when grown in Maryland. Growers are still experimenting to find the best ways to prune and train it to obtain adequate production. When spur pruned on cordons as most growers prefer, it is very unproductive. When pruned to long canes, production has varied from a few pounds per vine to 15 or 20 pounds per vine. If we can get a reasonable crop from it, it is healthy, reasonably disease resistant with spraying, and seems to be hardy. Wait and see how the yield battle turns out before you plant many of this variety.
Pinot Gris - Known as Pinot Grigio in Italy. A white-wine relative of Pinot noir which it resembles in viticultural characteristics. Makes excellent wine. Is hardy in most parts of Maryland. Reasonably disease resistant with normal spraying. Provides acceptable yield. Has not been planted enough in Maryland for wineries to include it in their normal inventory. If available, it should be easily marketed.
Sangiovese - The grape from which Chianti is made. In California, is becoming more widely planted and its wines accepted by the buying public. In Maryland, I know of only one winery which grows or uses it. Hardy, vigorous, and productive. Susceptible to downy mildew in late summer if not sprayed regularly with Captan or other fungicide effective against downy. I am sure it would be more widely used if there were an adequate supply.
Viognier - One of the best (and certainly one of the best known) white wine grapes from the Rhone. Makes an outstanding wine which, currently, is reaching almost cult status. So far as I know, Horton Winery in Virginia is the only winery now using it in our area. For Horton, its wine is a sellout each year at premium prices. At my location in Germantown, it is productive, disease resistant without special care in spraying, and has been hardy for me and for Copernica Vineyards in Westminster. I predict a good future for it if it is planted enough to give the wineries a dependable supply.
Promising Hybrids
GM 322-58 - A German hybrid from the Geisenheim research station. A cross between Riesling and Chancellor, it is hardy, vigorous, productive, and disease resistant without special spraying requirements. Will develop high sugar but becomes susceptible to botrytis if allowed to go much beyond 21.5 Brix. If kept free of rotten berries, makes an excellent spicy/fruity white wine reminiscent of Gewurztraminer. I know of no commercial planting anywhere but the quality of its wines would make it attractive to wineries if it were available. It might be necessary to give it an attractive and recognizable name (as has been done with the other popular hybrids) to attract the buying public.
Vignoles - A variety that has been around for a long time with its excellent white wine popular with amateur winemakers and those wineries which have found a supply of it. Hardy and productive, it is one of the few grapes which can be grown in Maryland which regularly will produce sufficient sugar for a sweet dessert wine. Botrytis becomes a problem if sugar rises to near its ultimate value (26-28% in most years). Is easier to keep clean if harvested at 22-24% sugar but, even there, requires good canopy control and careful spraying for botrytis. In most years, earlier picking yields such high acid levels that the wine is too tart unless blended with some less-acid variety. The dry wines, if made with acid level below about 0.95% are delightful. The dessert wines also are very good and bring premium prices. There is only one large planting of it in Maryland and that will reach production for the first time this year. If it is successful in maintaining the quality of its product, the variety may achieve higher recognition.
Not Recommended Vinifera
Aligote.It rots.
Gamay Beaujolais.Won't ripen before frost.
Chenin Blanc.Not hardy.
Pinot Noir.It rots and, if not, color and flavor inadequate.
Riesling.Usually rots.
Sauvignon Blanc.It rots.
Zinfandel.Uneven ripening, fungus diseases.
All of these and, possibly more probably can be grown in choice locations by experienced growers who are willing to provide the care and attention necessary to succeed with them. They will not provide a high probability of success for a beginning grower.
Not Recommended Hybrids
Aurore. Rots.
Cascade. Inadequate color and flavor. For blending only.
Baco Noir. Rots. Nematode/virus susceptibility.
Chelois. Same.
Foch. Little demand except for blending.
Leon Millot. Same.
These and many other hybrids were popular when hybrids were first introduced but are no longer in demand. The newer varieties are a better bet.
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